Tohono O'odham

South and southwest of Tucson is the land of the Tohono O'odham Nation. Formerly called the Popago by the Spanish, the native people have rejected that name that refers to "bean eaters" and adopted their current name, Tohono O'odham, which translates to "People of the Desert". The Sonoran Desert is their home, on the second largest reservation land wise in the country.

A common symbol of these Native Americans is the Man in the Maze.

This example was painted over a doorway in a side room of the Mission San Xavier del Bac, which is located in a district of the reservation.

The Man in the maze is I'itoi, a mischievous creator god who resides in a cave below the peak of Baboquivari Mountain.

I'itoi is responsible for the gift of Hindag, a series of commandments guiding people to remain in balance with the world.

The symbol is found on petroglyphs and baskets. According to oral history, the labyrinth design depicts the experiences and choices we make in our journey through life. In the middle of the maze, a person finds their dreams and goals. When one reaches the center, we have the final opportunity (the last turn in the design) to look back upon our choices and path, before the Sun God greats us, blesses us and passes us into the next world.

I looked for representations of this life symbol, but they sell out quickly and not that many are available. I found this inexpensive pendant at a shop at the Phoenix airport. I'm wearing it now.

The Tohono O'odham are also notable for their basket making. Materials for everyday life were scarce in ancient times, and the native peoples made use of what they had in the desert. These baskets are made of bear grass and yucca. This display was at the Visitors Center at Kitt Peak, which is on Nation land. They have a lovely collection of baskets for sale.

But I had already bought my little example at the Pow-wow several days before.

The Pow-wow being hosted by the Tohono O'odham was on the grounds of the mission, so when we went there to tour the mission we were drawn to the Pow-wow also.

As we watched the dancing of visiting tribes of Plains Indians, a young man sitting near us gave us some background of what we were seeing.

These girls are "jingle dancers". The "bells" on their costumes are the rolled lids of snuff cans! Their goal is to move to the singing and drumming rhythm while getting a maximum jingle from their costumes.

This girl is doing the shawl dance, and she is very good, according to our commentator. Most women's dances aren't very active, but this girl dances "like a man". That was a good thing.

Of course the early Desert People did not have elaborate costumes, and these represent many tribes, but with at least four different singing and drumming teams, colorful costumes, competitive dancing, and just visiting, all were having a good time.

Not only did I buy a beautiful little basket from a young man who's grandmother makes them, but we also succumbed to the smell of the fry bread being cooked over mesquite wood.